by Mickey RountreeBack in the 70’s and 80’s we used to produce a tricolor effect by either making a triple exposure on one frame of film with pure red, pure blue and pure green filters, or by using a “Harris Shutter” (see below) which acted as both a holder for the three filters and as a shutter during a long exposure. I did the effect both in 35mm and on 4×5 film, but figuring out the proper exposure for the three exposures and the filter factors for each color was pretty tedious.https://www.lightstalking.com/harris-shutter-effect/In the tricolor effect different parts of an image with subject movement show up as different colors. Parts of the image with no movement have normal color, due to the fact that in the RGB color model equal parts of red, green and blue produce white, or normal white balance.
When these articles are converted to PDF and sized for the newsletter, the resolution and quality of the images is seriously degraded. If you would like to read the article and see the images as I did, you can see this article on my website at this link.
Since most digital cameras don’t allow for triple exposures, I was able to find a way to create the effect in Photoshop. The first step is to shoot three images that have some movement, but also some overlap, or something that is stationary (or relatively stationary).
In Lightroom select three similar images with some movement. Right click, choose edit in and select open as layers in Photoshop.
With the three images opened as layers in Photoshop, select the top layer and double click on the light side of the layer icon and layer styles will open.
Select the top layer, open the layers style and you will see check boxes for the red, blue and green channels. For consistency, I usually uncheck the blue and green channels, so the top layer becomes the red layer. For the second layer I uncheck the red and blue channels, and on the bottom image I uncheck the red and green channels. You can change this order and get slightly different effects, just make sure that each layer has only one channel selected and that there is a red layer, blue layer and green layer.
When you have made the three layer adjustments, go to layer/flatten image. From here you can continue editing just like you would any image.
Here are a few examples, ranging from subtle to extreme depending on the amount of movement, and how much of the image is stationary, or at least has a lot of overlap.
And now for a little color theory. It’s easy to understand that there should be red, green and blue colors in our image, but where did the yellow, cyan and magenta come from, since we didn’t use those filters? And here’s the answer. The stationary parts of our image get equal parts of red, green, and blue and that equals white or normal white balance. Areas that receive blue and green exposure, but no red produce cyan. Areas that receive red and blue exposure, but no green produce magenta. Areas that receive green and red exposure, but no blue produce yellow. If you look on a color wheel, you will find that red is opposite cyan, blue is opposite yellow, and green is opposite magenta.
This can be an interesting effect if used sparingly. Just remember to shoot three exposures that contain movement while keeping the camera as steady as possible between exposures. To me the most important part of the effect may be how it helps reinforce our understanding of the RGB and CMYK color models.